Cara Firenze! Some cities you visit. Florence is the one we keep running back to. Now we’ve put that love on paper: a new city guide by Fanny of @studiofannyatelier.
When Fanny spent October in Italy and saved the best days for Florence, a few Midnatt babies naturalmente talked their way into her suitcase. Inside the guide: where to stay, eat, drink, wander and shop. From the workshops of the Oltrarno and beyond. Not every corner of the city, just the ones you’ll fall for. Why now? Well, autumn belongs to Chianti Classico. Oh, and have you ever seen Florence under Christmas lights? Pure romance.
"Florence is a city I keep coming back to, ever since my mother first brought me here almost twenty years ago. Most of my favorites are on the Oltrarno side of the river, around Piazza Santo Spirito, where the city feels a little slower and more local. It’s the perfect base for a few days of good coffee, long dinners and aperitivo with a view."
Stay
Hotel Palazzo Guadagni
A charming Renaissance palace on Piazza Santo Spirito. The rooftop loggia has one of the most beautiful sunset views in Florence. A wonderful place to stay, or simply stop by for a drink.
Anchor Florence Santa Croce
A new apartment hotel in the Santa Croce neighborhood that feels much more like a hotel than a typical rental. You get the space and freedom of your own apartment, with the comfort and ease of a hotel stay. A great choice if you want a home base for a few days in the city.
Coffee & breakfast
Caffè degli Artigiani
A beloved local café in the Santo Spirito neighborhood. Small, relaxed and full of Florentine character. Perfect for an espresso, breakfast or an afternoon coffee.
S. Forno
A stylish bakery known for excellent pastries and artisan bread. Modern yet cozy, and a perfect stop for breakfast or a light lunch.
Cibrèo Caffè
An iconic Florentine café and a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Go for breakfast.
Eat
Trattoria Cammillo
A historic restaurant loved by locals and visitors alike. The menu features classic Tuscan dishes prepared with great care. Elegant, but still warm and welcoming.
Il Santo Bevitore
Traditional Italian cooking with a modern twist. The interior is beautiful and the atmosphere lively, a favorite for both dinner and wine.
Both of these places you need to book a table at, as they’re always fully booked.
Drinks
Loggia Roof Bar at Hotel Palazzo Guadagni
A stunning rooftop bar with panoramic views over the skyline and the Duomo. The perfect spot for an aperitivo while the sun sets over the city. Elegant yet relaxed, for cocktails or a quiet moment above the busy streets.
Il Santino
The cozy wine bar next door to Il Santo Bevitore, known for excellent natural wines and delicious small plates. It fills up quickly, and the lively crowd spills out onto the street. Perfect for a relaxed evening with friends or a casual wine tasting.
See & do
Giardino Bardini
A quieter, romantic garden with panoramic views over the city. The elegant staircase and terrace are especially magical in spring, when the wisteria blooms. A serene alternative to the busier Boboli Gardens.
Piazza Santo Spirito Market
A lively Oltrarno market full of fresh produce, crafts and street food. On Sundays it hosts the city’s best flea market, perfect for vintage and antique finds. I LOVE to browse here.
Fotoautomatica
Vintage photo booths scattered around the streets of Florence. Step inside for classic black-and-white photo strips that feel wonderfully nostalgic. A fun little stop to capture a memory while you explore. I love this even if it’s very touristy.
Shop
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Founded in 1221, this is one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe and a true Florentine treasure. Beautifully preserved rooms display perfumes, soaps and herbal remedies made using centuries-old traditions. It’s my favorite shop in Florence. My mother first brought me here almost twenty years ago, and every visit still feels just as magical.
Profumeria Invicta
I love stopping here to pick up handmade headbands, all beautifully crafted in Florence.
Giunti Odeon
A bookstore set inside the historic Cinema Odeon. The beautiful Art Nouveau hall now houses shelves of books, but it still works as a cinema too, with an evening screening of a film in its original language. There’s a café inside as well, so you can easily lose a whole afternoon browsing with a coffee in hand. A must for every book lover.
When to go
My favorite times to visit Florence are October to December and March to June. This is when the city is at its very best. In autumn and early winter the light turns soft and golden, the evenings get cozy, and the streets feel calmer. In spring the gardens come alive, the wisteria blooms at Giardino Bardini, and long lunches move outside again.
Whenever you go, take your time. Florence is a city to wander rather than rush through. Linger over an espresso, get a little lost on the Oltrarno side, and save room for one more aperitivo at sunset. I hope this guide helps you find your own favorite corners of the city, the ones that make you want to come back again and again.
Text and photo by: Fanny Castro
